[GSX1100G] adjusting valves
[GSX1100G] adjusting valves |
| Subject: | [GSX1100G] Digest Number 3555 |
| Date Received: | Saturday, November 21, 2009 6:46:47 AM |
| Date Sent: | Saturday, November 21, 2009 6:46:42 AM |
| From: | [email protected] Valve adjusting on the G is quite conventionnal, and doesn’t take too much time. The only embarassing thing is re-screwing the cover nuts, use torque wrench and be careful, look when you take the screws off that the alloy thread doesn’t come with it.. The solution is helicoils on the camshafts cups 7×100 thread if I remember….Look at my pics in “French G” album. Herve Valve adjustment tips Posted by: “rich55barrett” [email protected] rich55barrett Date: Sat Nov 21, 2009 4:33 am ((PST)) Valve adjustment is relatively easy and cheap (usually free). The valves change the most early on, then just need slight adjustments after about 30-40K miles. Some tips for dismantling: (not a step by step) Fuel Tank – when removing the tank be sure to remove the 2 bolts holding the petcock before lifting the tail of the tank, otherwise you may pull off the hoses between the tank and the petcock – that’s a lot of fun!!! remember where the 2 vent lines and 2 electrical connections go. I use a small chunk of 2×4 to put under the tail of the tank while I sort that stuff out. To get the cover off you may need to tap it a bit to release the seal and free it from the 2 locating dowels. I use a hammer handle or rubber mallet, which ever I grab first. Lift cover as high as you can when extracting it from the bike and move it to the right. Taking the center vent cover off helps. Watch for the spark plug hole gaskets. They can get caught on the cam chain and drop into the camchain tunnel. Use RTV to hold them in putting the cover back on. I find that after I’ve loosened the locknuts I can turn the little squares with my fingernails until it just takes out the clearance with the feeler gauge in place then tighten by hand with a ring spanner. watch the squares and check the gap. Helicoils: Yes I have them in, got them from Pep Boys as a kit (automotive chain). If you have a drill press, that is the best way to re-tap the hole. Don’t turn it on, just use it to get the tap vertical. I find that with a stripped thread, you don’t need the special drill, just their tap. Avoiding Helicoils: Don’t be tempted to just tighten the bolt a bit to stop a leak. 1. It won’t stop the leak 2. It will strip the thread. The 8 Large headed bolts are designed to bottom out against the cam caps. So when you tighten them, you are just cinching them up against the cam cap, not the seal. If the seal leaks, replace it or use RTV to fill the gap – which you cannot close by tweaking the bolts a bit more. 4 Center banjo bolts: These break easily. Tighten by hand only unless you have a low level torque wrench, that is accurate. If you feel one give a little, take it out and look at the cross drilled hole. Is it oval or skewed? If yes throw it away and get another from the dealer. This is one part they actually carry by the bucket load as their mechanics break them all the time. Did you remember to RTV all the seals into the cover? Did you knock off a spark plug hole gasket putting the cover back on? Then you should be good to go. Rich — In [email protected], Lee <bonsaicatto@…> wrote:
So far, I’ve had to heli coil one of my cam bearing caps; I expect to have to do more, if I remove my valve cover enough times. If you can drill and tap a blind hole, you can use Heli coils without a problem. They advertise the repair as being stronger than the original thread. You will need the M7X1.0 size; unless your auto supply stores are a lot better equipped than the ones around here, you’ll either have to order it or go online; this is the source I used: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/hel5546-7.html The required drill is a 9/32, commonly available. I would advise using a drill press to bore the hole, BE CAREFUL, you don’t want to drill all the way through. Use the supplied tap and cutting oil to tap it, use the supplied insertion tool to insert the heli coil. Replace the bearing cap, torquing to the correct value. If you’re doing all of them, I’d remove, repair, and replace them one at a time- you can only work on one at a time and there’s no sense doing unnecessary work. DON’T SCREW UP- these bearing caps are NOT available separately without buying a head. Sam, I adjusted my valves last winter because they were making some noise. The previous owner had done a adjustment and didn’t do it correctly. Some were loose, some were tight. Much quieter and smoother now. The thing to remember about NOT adjusting the valves is, they get Tighter and quieter the more they wear and will eventually Burn because they stay open due to 0 valve clearance when they get Hot. I wouldn’t think you would have anything to worry about at 20k, Bill is a testiment to that. If you do decide to adjust them make sure that the gasket that surounds the spark plug hole doesn’t fall off placing the valve cover in place. I made this mistake and when you start the motor you promptly fill the spark plug cavity with Oil and it starts Running down the front of the motor from the spark plug drain hole. I about Had a Heart Attack, thought I broke the cylinder head and the oil was running out of it. Tim 1991 “G MAX” |