Re : [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] exhausts/ carbon mufflers?

Re : [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] exhausts/ carbon mufflers?

Subject: Re : [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: What price for carbon mufflers?
Date Received: Friday, August 7, 2009 5:50:18 AM
Date Sent: Friday, August 7, 2009 5:48:50 AM
From: julien collet <[email protected]>


Remus (availability ?)


NSCS Ninja:


one pair second hand (but in France…)- 300€

ferracci (availability ???)



Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Aluminum Swarf in Oil

Source URL: message://%[email protected]%3e

Subject: Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Aluminum Swarf in Oil
Date Received: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 9:27:33 AM
Date Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 9:25:56 AM
From: Wayne Lenkeit <[email protected]>

Apparently there isn’t enough clearance for the plug to drop out so it gets ground down as it backs out

On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 8:00 AM, Nik Codling <[email protected]>wrote:

I can’t comment specifically on the cause of the aluminium debris, but I did recently see a 900ie engine that had a gallery plug let go on the dyno. Oil everywhere, as you can imagine.

I have to say I’ve not heard about this before, and I’m curious to know why a gallery plug backing out would create swarf.

Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] No Power, Troubleshooting help

Subject: Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] No Power, Troubleshooting help
Date Received: Thursday, May 7, 2009 12:03:37 PM
Date Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2009 12:03:03 PM
From: Joe Bonnello <[email protected]>


I was cleaning up my wiring last week and the same thing happened.

When I disconnected the three way connector (all yellow wires) under the rear tail section,everything went dead. This is the notorious connector that always overheats and fries the wires.

It has been covered in this column many times.

Mine was ALSO cooked where it originates FROM.

That is, the exact same, three way connector that is found behind the left side plastic panel that covers all the main wiring junctions. Where the key goes in to release the seat.

The connector is on the top, along the side of the frame tubes. Look right where the sub-frame bolts to the main frame. Three yellow wires.

I re-did both ends using solder-on bullet connectors, male to female. I had them already, but they are a pain to find at the auto parts stores or Radio shack.

Some guys have simply cut and soldered the wires together, the hell with the connectors.

While you have the panel off, all the main junction blocks are right there, look for a cooked wire, but I am sure you already know this.

I use silicon die-electric grease on EVERY single connector and junction, ground wires, screw terminals etc. Works to keep everything new, and the connectors come apart with much less stress later.

On another note, THANK YOU Warren!

Tried to start my bike, everything came on, but NO fuel pump sound. And no spark when I pulled a spark plug.

Turns out to be the fuel pump relay, just as Warren suggested.

It is found under the computer module. Remove the seat, the plastic seat pan, and then the four gold, 10mm nuts that hold the computer.

There are two relays under there. The fuel pump relay is the one on the OUTSIDE, or right side if you were sitting on the bike.

The other relay, in the center, is for the injection system. They are identical.

NAPA Auto had three of them for $7.99 each. I bought all three, replaced both relays on the Cagiva, and kept one for a spare.

The new ones had a little extra plastic “tab” at the bottom. That made it difficult to slip them back into the rubber holders. I simply wacked off the extra plastic with a small razor saw.

You can do the same with a hack saw or whatever.

Bike fired right up and now runs perfect, once again.

Good luck to Sean and thanks again Warren.

Joe B.

On May 7, 2009, at 7:20 AM, Alan Sean wrote:

My 2000 GC is my daily rider. Rode it back and forth to work yesterday 9125 K).

This morning I turn the bike on, all sees normal, put up the side stand, still normal, switch the kill switch to on (still normal), press the starter button and the whole thing goes dead. No lights, no fuel pump, no horn, nada.

Turned it of, then back on, zilch.

Checked all of the fuses, none have been tripped. Battery is newer and is always on the Battery tender at night, no other issues recently.

Any ideas?

Thanks – Alan

Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: 16 tooth front sprocket, center stand, and hi, glad to find you!!!!!

Source URL: message://%[email protected]%3e

Subject: Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: 16 tooth front sprocket, center stand, and hi, glad to find you!!!!!
Date Received: Thursday, July 30, 2009 9:15:54 AM
Date Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2009 9:14:39 AM
From: Russell Mcfarland <[email protected]>

Either you’re dealing with the wrong Ducati shop or the parts boy has no initiative. There are lots of after-market sprocket companies that do 16t Ducati sprockets. Sprocket Specialists offers a 16t CS sprocket in both 520 or 525 sizes. Have some other dealer, Japanese or otherwise call Parts Unlimited/Rocky-Tucker/etc and order one for you. Or they can go directly to Sprocket Specialists (among all the others). I put a 16t 525 on my GC. The 520 will work fine also. About 20.00 if I recall. Rust…

Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: Oil filter

Source URL: message://%[email protected]%3e

Subject: Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: Oil filter
Date Received: Monday, August 3, 2009 8:55:58 AM
Date Sent: Monday, August 3, 2009 8:54:42 AM
From: john comé <[email protected]>

I’ve been using the K&N for 45,000 km. Others that will work:

These Oil Filters

have 16 x 1.5mm threads,

8 psi by-pass valve,

anti-drain back valve.

Available filters include

  • AMSOil SMF 132/132C
  • EMGO 10-26980
  • Fram PH6019, PH6074
  • K&N KN-153
  • NAPA 7013
  • WIX 57013

Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: Still fighting a fuel tank leak…

Source URL: message://%[email protected]%3e

Subject: Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: Still fighting a fuel tank leak…
Date Received: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 3:02:47 PM
Date Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 3:01:37 PM
From: Brian Zooom <[email protected]>

When I replaced mine, I questioned the wallowing as it were from pulling the remainder of the old one out after the head had cracked and it snapped off when trying to replace it. I was afriad that it might have a possibility of a future leak. I threaded the new one in with a few layers of gas rated yellow teflon tape and I have had no problems of leakage.

On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 4:50 PM, robert_kanderson <[email protected]> wrote:

I had the same problem. I had to completely disassemble the tank and apply a 2 part super duper epoxy (which I got at a Marine/boat store) that is gasoline resistant, glopped the crap out of it at the connection point to the valve, let it dry, put some gas in to test, worked fine, reassembled and not a problem since.


— In [email protected], Joe Bonnello <joebphoto@…> wrote:



> On Aug 10, 2009, at 7:54 AM, fresno0318 wrote:


> > I, too, have this same leak…I also did the same fix as you, by

> > replacing the valve, however, the leak persisted. I finally

> > discovered (as you did) that the fitting that is attached to the

> > plastic tank is the problem. I tried to fix the problem with epoxy,

> > but never was able to get the epoxy in the right spot (due to the

> > restricted access). I finally gave up and now I have a coffee can

> > filled with kitty litter placed under the tank to drink up the

> > leaking gas. I’ve been doing this for several years and it’s my

> > solution to an unsolveable problem.

> >

> > — In [email protected], “billn.rm” <billn@>

> > wrote:

> > >

> > > The rearmost fuel line fitting in the left tank on my ’99 GC is

> > leaking. I’ve replaced the fitting with one of LT’s metal ones, and

> > redone the install a couple of times to make sure I had it tight/

> > didn’t screw up the thread sealant/etc. and it STILL leaks. Any

> > ideas? I’m thinking it’s now the interface between the metal that’s

> > molded into the tank and the plastic tank itself that’s the source

> > of the leak. Any idea on how to fix that? I REALLY don’t want to try

> > and source a new left side tank. HELP PLEASE!!

> > >

Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: Torquing steel bolts in aluminum housings?

Source URL: message://%3c7340C9E05D8442C3BAA4AB86E92CB451@c1521056a%3e

Subject: Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: Torquing steel bolts in aluminum housings?
Date Received: Monday, July 27, 2009 10:15:25 PM
Date Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 10:13:00 PM
From: chris cork <[email protected]>

Actually typical antisieze sold in auto stores is a molybdenum disulfide based lube and works great (I always use on spark plugs etc). Silver based stuff is special application and very expensive ~$50/small tube (and over kill for auto/bike applications IMHO)…it is used it for fasteners that have to go to high temps (300C+) w/o seizing, like in high vacuum systems that need to be ‘baked’ to achieve high vacuum.

Torque is a very involved subject (as mentioned). I would recommend you torque to the ‘final’ spec in one pass only.

Regarding the fork bushings, I bought them last year and I don’t remember if I got them locally (Munroe Motors in SF Bay area) or Letko cycles ( The bushing P/Nos: 8000 70322 (2 Ea) & 800 70328 (2

Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: Torquing steel bolts in aluminum housings?

Source URL: message://%[email protected]%3e

Subject: Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Re: Torquing steel bolts in aluminum housings?
Date Received: Monday, July 27, 2009 5:26:33 PM
Date Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 5:26:10 PM
From: David Svoboda <[email protected]>

Actually, ALL torque specification values are “lubricated” torque. Ask an airplane mechanic

sometime. That they don’t say it in the shop manuals is why mechanics have to go to school.

Look at the Honda Common Service Manual. It tells you this in the front part, about general


In addition, when there’s dissimilar materials like steel bolts into aluminum, “anti-seize” silver

grease is important to prevent electrolytic galling, especially in hot environments like spark plugs.

I use it universally, on pretty much every bolt that doesn’t get locktite. It’s just makes life easier.

Torque specs are intended to induce a given bolt stretching force. If the medium you’re

going into yields, the resulting stretch spec on the bolt is not as intended by the spec. On a

clamp bolt, you’re stretching the aluminum around the entire circumference of the clamp, and

the aluminum creeps a little. If you ever have the opportunity to walk around and loosen clamp

bolts on a whole line of bikes, like at a tech-day, you’ll see that a large portion of them are barely

tightened, and really probably not holding so well, since some mechanic somewhere wasn’t

consistent or patient enough.

I’m not telling anyone to apply any more torque than specified. I’m just saying to be consistent

in applying the limited specified torque. If you don’t overtorque, you won’t break anything.

– Dave Svoboda, Boulder

Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Rear cylinder valve check – How little can I get away with removing?

Subject: Re: [Cagiva_Gran_Canyon2] Rear cylinder valve check – How little can I get away with removing?
Date Received: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 12:28:13 PM
Date Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 12:27:49 PM
From: Alan Sean <[email protected]>

I always remove the following to make valve checking/adjusting easy.

1. Seat

2. Seat plastic mount.

3. Rear Tire

4. Rear Shock.

Make getting to the rear cylinder a lot easier.